Saint Paul of the Cross
"As Paul and John Baptist started up the winding path that crested the slope of Monte Argentaro, every well-remembered landmark seemed to welcome them home. The Hermitage of the Annunciation came into view, and with a shock of surprise, they suddenly realised that a tenant was in possession. A familiar but not a friendly face stared coldly at the brothers, and they recognised Anthony Schiaffino. Whilst they had been occupied at the Hospital of St. Gallican, Schiaffino had quietly decided to move to the spot which had been painted in such glowing colours by Paul for the hermits of Gaeta. Remonstrance and supplication alike were in vain. He was in possession he would not share the Hermitage, and if possible, he would prevent the brothers from settling anywhere on Monte Argentaro.
In the interest of peace, Paul withdrew, and after consultation with John Baptist, they botli decided to return to Castellazzo. But the boat upon which they had emba rked remained immovable, although two other vessels put to sea without difficulty. Only when Paul had stepped ashore was the ship again free to move. This sign I from heaven made the dark way clear : they must stay on Monte Argentaro. Once-more the brothers faced the hill together, and as they climbed, Paul remembered another little hermitage, St. Anthony's. It had fallen into decay, and at first sight, it seemed hopeless to think of renovating it. The walls bulged ominously, the roof was full of holes, the chapel so dirty that it'did not seem decent to think of saying Mass there. Paul inspected the building and made a quick decision. They would stay. Tucking up his habit, he set to work at once to clean out the debris The chapel might be poor, but at least it would be clean. Anthony Schiaffino watched their labour with hostile eyes, and no persuasion on Paul's part could effect a change in his attitude. For the moment, this was the only cloud on the horizon, as the brothers tried to regain the happy spiritual atmosphere in which their souls had expanded six years before. In the peaceful round of prayer and penance, their bedies grew strong again and their souls regained the peace of God.
The old Bishop, Mgr. Salvi, was dead, and had been succeeded by Mgr. Christopher Palmieri, a more enterprising prelate. In lent, 1729, he made a pastoral visitation in Portercole, and for the first time met the hermits of Monte Argentaro, whose reputation for sanctity had spread far beyond his diocese. Having put them through ä brief examination, he conferred faculties for Preaching and hearing confessions. As a beginning, he asked Paul to preach a short Paschal retreat in Portercole. It was true that whilst still a layman, Paul had preached, and had even given what some have called " missions.'' But the real commencement of his missionary work was here at the foot of Monte Argentaro. This was the-modest start of that immense spiritual harvest that would be in the reaping for another full thirty years.
With a few notable exceptions, practically all the missions given by St. Paul of the Cross lay within a comparatively small section of Italy, but it was a povertystricken and peculiarly difficult area. It fell into three main political divisions: the town of Orbetello, which, with the adjacent coastal territory and the Isle of Elba, formed the little " Garrison State," then under Austrian and later under Spanish occupation ; the Duchy of Tuscany, which was subject to the Emperor of Austria; and to the south of these, the Papal States. Apart from missions in the larger towns, his main apostolic effort was directed towards the inhabitants of the Maremme, the marshy, unhealthy tract running along the coast from leghom to Terracina, near Gaeta. There were few highways and no signposts in this barren land, so that it was easy to lose one's way amidst the unmarked tracks across the malaria-breeding swamps. Paul thought little of such dangers, and often threw himself down at night to sleep on a heap of bracken under the stars.
Owing to the proximity of the frontiers of three different States, the whole area was a favourite refuge for smugglers, bandits, murderers, and a host of minor criminals. They were a grim-faced and sullen breed, often heavily-armed, their clothes in rags. living in an atmosphere of suspicion, they did not quickly give,their confidence to strangers. The rest of the population was rude and uncultured, made up of hardy fisher folk, tall, bronzed woodcutters, darkskinned charcoal-burners, and weather-beaten peasants from the fields. They lived a wretched life under miserable and squalid conditions, and were often totally ignorant of elementary religious truths. Should this picture seem overdrawn, a letter from the saint to Cardinal Altieri, Ordinary of Orbetello, confirms the general impression:
Before our arrival, the people of St. Stephano were almost completely ignorant of the principal mysteries of our holy Faith.... If your Eminence really knew the spiritual need of these localities, you could not help shedding tears of blood."
The town of Orbetello at the foot of Monte Argentaro was derisively called little Geneva." In Catholic Italy, the sad notoriety of that centre of Calvinism bad made the name of Geneva a byword and a reproach, yet St. Paul of the Cross gave seven missions in Orbetello alone. The large military garrison included many soldiers belonging to Protestant regiments from beyond the Alps; in 1741 there was certainly a Swiss contingent, Besler's Regiment, which perhaps gave point to the taunt of " little Geneva.Even with such unpromising material, the saint's success was outstanding. An officer testified that - hardly a single day passed by but four or five Protestants, lutherans or Calvinists came to Fr. Paul even on the mission platform where he used to preach. The Servant of God warmly welcomed them and late r on instructed them. He made them publiely renounce heresy and guided them on the path of salvation."
No one knew the state of the diocese of Sovana better than Mgr. Palmieri, who had carefully noted Paul's growing reputation in Portercole. In the following year, 1730, the Bishop sent him to give a formal mission in Talamone, a populous seaport on the Tuscan coast. Meanwhile, still in pursuit of his main objective, Paul approached his old friend, Mgr. Crescenzi, in the hope of obtaining approval of his Rule from another new Pope, Clement X1I, who had been elected on july 12th. Again the attempt was premature, although the Pope did send a Rescript bestowing the apostolic blessing upon the brothers, and granting a plenary indulgence to all who attended their missions. A forward step which had more important results was the grant of faculties from Cardinal Altieri, who exercised ecclesiastical jurisdiction over the to" of Orbetello. This gave them an extended apostolate, and soon Paul and John Baptist were familiar figures in the town. Their zealous preaching and self-sacrificing labours aroused such interest that the people wanted to show their appreciation. How could this be done ? All knew of Paul's hope of building a proper monastery, and in reply to a petition from the saint, the civic authorities made the first move by writing to Cardinal Altieri for permission to transfer to Paul title-deeds of a site which was held for church purposes. Paul thrilled with joy at this development, for in his solitude on Monte Argentaro, the Blessed Virgin hadpointed out this site as the place where the future monastery would one day stand.
Troubles began to multiply from the start. When the news became public, the people of Portercole were affronted because Paul had seemed to favour Orbetello to their detriment. They resolved to build their own monastery for the redoubtable Schiaffino, and in view of his unchanged attitude, it is not hard to guess whence this inspiration arose. The foundations were already laid when the people of Portercole lost their sudden enthusiasm and decided to go no further. Meanwhile, a hitch had developed at Rome. The Vicar-General at Orbetello had only limited powers; the final decision rested with Cardinal Altieri. His Eminence was an old man with all an old man's distrust ofnewenterprises. He further feared that some irregularity might occur at Orbetello for which he in Rome would be held responsible. Without displaying any active opposition to the proposal, he contrived to entangle it in such a mass of red tape that Paul almost despaired of finding a way through the impasse. Maps and plans were inspected afresh, and it was discovered that the site did not come within the boundary of the municipality of Orbetello. It was royal property subject to the King of Naples, whose consent was speedily obtained. Impatient of these endless delays, the people of Orbetello got to work on their own account. They started to haul building materials up the mountain, and the site became encumbered with heaps of sand and gravel, floor joists and roof timbers, ropes and scaffolding-poles. Paul's first lenten mission in Orbetello increased enthusiasm for the undertaking, and the foundation-stone was laid on March 4th, 1733.
leaving John Baptist to supervise the construction, Paul departed for missions in Piombino and Manciano. On his return, he had expected to find the building well advanced, but to his consternation the workers were gone and the whole project at a complete standstill. The only answer he could get in Orbetello was : orders from Naples. To surmount this check, Paul decided to go to Naples himself. It was the height of summer and he walked barefoot every hard mile of the road, only to have his petition coldly rejected. All his plans had collapsed - was this to be another failure ? As he had done. before in like circumstances, he turned to Mary for help, making the pilgrimage to loreto, or rather in his own pitiful phrase, " dragging himself there on his knees." Having done all that was humanly possible, he tranquilly retumed to Monte Argentaro to await results.
The whole situation changed overnight by the outbreak. of war. It was such a small war that only the bigger histories have room for it, calling it " the War of the Polish Election." The allies were France, Spain and Sardinia; the enerny was Austria - although it is still not quite clear why the French and the Spaniards should ave decided to fight the Austrians in Italy over an election in Poland. The plan of campaign was simple enough for the French invaded lombardy, whilst the Spaniards lan I ed at Spezzia to march on Tuscany. As a preliminary defence measure, Austria ordered the expulsion of all enemy aliens from Tuscany. Paul and John Baptist would have had to leave Monte Argentaro, had not the Austrian commander generously granted them a special exemption-order, with a permit to pass freely on Austrian territory. This was the only concession, for obviously all building activity would have to be suspended until after the war.
Within two years, the Spaniards had overrun Naples and Sicily, and were then free to concentrate against Orbetello and Portercole, the last Austrian strongholds in Tuscany. Paul's solitude was rudely broken by preparations for battle. From the neighbouring Fort Mount Philip, be could hear shrill bugle-calls and the deeper note of drums. From his mountain eyrie, he could look down upon the walls of Orbetello and catch the glint of sunshine from drawn swords and polished muskets. His first encounter with the belligerents was when a Spanish outpost, suspecting his hermit's dress, arrested him as a spy. He was brought in for questioning and sent to the Spanish commander, General de las Minas. The general quickly discovered that Paul had no evil intentions or sinister designs on the troops, and hospitably ended the interview by taking him off to dine with his staff. He gave the saint full permission to attend to the spiritual needs of his own troops, and in view of Paul's long-standing friendship with the Austrians in Orbetello, he allowed him to pass freely over to the enemy's lines whenever he wished. This was surely a unique assignment for a military chaplain - for such was now Paul's chief occupation to have free access to both armies. The situation was not without its humour, for when the besieged garrison of Orbetello saw the familiar black-clad figure of Paul waiting patiently outside the walls, they hastened to lower the drawbridge to let him across to the town. By mutual consent, both armies held their fire.
If the Spaniards were good Christians, they were also good soldiers and set about their task in workmanlike fashion. An artillery emplacement was established on the heights of Monte Argentaro, and when the guns were in position, they began to bombard Portercole. Puffs of white smoke arose from the green wooded slopes as the cannons poured in a hot fire. Alter a month, a lucky shot exploded the powder-magazine of Fort Mount Philip, .and on May 12th, Portercole surrendered. Orbetello, almost surrounded by its lake, was more stubbomly defended. The Spaniards switched around their guns to Ange on the town and prepared for a bombardment. Paul was struck with horror at the coming ordeal for the an population. He went at once to the Spanish general and begged hän to countermand the order. las Minas took refuge in the old soldier's argument, " regrettable military necessity.- Paul persisted, emphasising that he knew the people of Orbetello, and that the town would undoubtedly surrender in a short time. At last the general capitulated. " Very well i It shall be so," he said curtly, " But I do this only for you I " Orders were issued for a blockade, and as Paul had foreseen, Orbetello surrendered on June 28th. When the Spanish general made his formal entry about a month later, he was so gratified by his cordial reception that he sent for the saint to congratulate him. " You were quite right, Fr. Paul," he warmly declared, " I am very well pleased with these people, and I'm much obliged to you for what you made me do!
Despite the care exercised by the belligerents, Paul was frequently under fire. On his way around the Spanish trenches on Monte Argentaro, he had to take cover whilst cannon balls ploughed up the earth about him, and soldiers were killed by his side. Other dangers were not wanting, for the over-crowded encampments were rife with fever as Paul moved ceaselessly amongst the sick troops on his mission of mercy. His most painful duty was to assist victims of the firing-squad. Twelve soldiers, who had refused to comply with the surrender-order at Portercole, were sentenced to death. Paul remained with them to the last, preparing them for their passage to. eternity, holding up his crucifix as the order was given to fire.'
With the fall of Orbetello' the war came to an end. Spanish rule was. established in the " Garrison State," and the surplus troops prepared to sail back to Spain. But .the aftermath of war remained in the tense atmosphere of the town, and the latent hostility of the people focussed on St. Paul of the Cross. Some remembered only his denunciation of vicious practices and wanted to silence that accusing voice. Others perhaps thought he bad been too friendly with the Spanish troops, or for that matter, 'with the departed Austrians. AU had already forgotten that his intervention alone had saved the town. Soon Paul was followed through the streets by a crowd who hooted and jeered him. . Men whistled derisively as he passed by with downcast eyes. Stones were flung at him. Popular feeling reached such a pitch that it was no longer safe for him to venture into the town by day; only after dusk could he pay a furtive visit to some staunch friends. The disorder spread to other towns, for at Pitigliano, the people absolutely refused to hear his sermons or to attend his mission. Calumny raised its ugly head, and was helped by malicious gossip. It was said that the hermits of Monte Argentaro had incurred the high displeasure of Cardinal Altieri, and rumour added that this displeasure would also fall upon all who gave alms for their support. The one source of Paul's slender revenue completely dried up. The resumed building work had to stop again for lack of funds. There was even no food for the little community - for he had been joined by four or five brave souls. The climax was reached when his enemies sallied forth from the town in the dead of night to pull down the monastery. This time, Providence intervened decisively to protect Paul, for the evil-doers fled in terror from an apparition of St. Michael the Archangel, standing with blazing sword above the half-built church. In memory of this event one of the altars of the present-day monastery has been dedicated to St. Michel.
To refute the calumnies, Paul made two more barefoot journeys to Rome, facing without complaint the seventy miles of road from Monte Argentaro. Cardinal Altieri appeared satisfied with his explanation, but a doubt still lingered in His Eminence's mind-or perhaps he was still inclined to excess of caution. They could occupy the monastery, but they were not to use the church. It is easy to picture Paul's dismay I Here was a fine new church attached to his monastery. It had cost him untold heartbreak, it was the fruit of his tears and anguish. Yet he must leave it empty, and walk barefoot for a mile and a half over a thorn-strewn, rocky mountain path to say Mass in the old decaying hermitage chapel. He was more keenly hurt by the deprivation of the poor souls in the neighbourhood; he could not even hear confessions in his church. No religious function whatever-that was the Cardinal's word. But it was not to be his last word.
Heart-broken at this development, Paul wrote a final appeal to Mgr. Crescenzi and told him the whole story. He was quite resigned to the Cardinal's wishes, but before God, it was hard. Mgr. Crescenzi proved a true friend, for he put Paul's letter in his pocket, put on his broadbrimmed hat, and went straight to Cardinal Corradini. The Cardinal, in turn, sought an audience with the Pope. Within a fortnight, Pope Clement XII who, though blind and bed-ridden was still capable of vigorous action, despatched a Brief to Cardinal Altieri directing him. to authorise a delegate to bless the church on Monte Argentaro as a public oratory, in which the sacraments might be administered and any other ecclesiastical function might take place. Once the onerous duty of making any positive decision was taken out of his hands, Cardinal Altieri proved kindness itself. He at once instructed his VicarGeneral at Orbetello to carry out the Papal mandate, and to bless the church with all solemnity. And in justice to His Eminence it must be added that he afterwards made amends to Paul for the. suffering he had unwittingly caused attended in state. General Blom arrived with his staff in all the glory of full-dress uniform, accompanied by a guard of honour and a military band. And in the midst of the excitement, St. Paul of the Cross, followed by eight companions, walked barefoot but radiantly happy into his new home, the Retreat of the Presentation of Our Blessed ady. It was seventeen years since he had written the Rule he was ten years ordained - but he was also forty-three years of age. More than half his life was over."
Continue to Part 1 of the Pilgimage with S:t Michael the Archangel